Experimental and numerical determination of the shoreline motion during the run-up of tsunami waves on a plain beach

Inhaltsverzeichnis (Table of Contents)

• Introduction
  • Motivation
  • General Information on Tsunamis
  • Scope of the Thesis
  • Outline of the Thesis
• Literature Review
  • Long Wave Generation Techniques
    • Piston-type Wave Generation
    • Dam Break Analogy
    • Vertical Sea Bed Motion
    • Pneumatic Wave Generation
  • The Brier Score
  • The Shoreline Motion of Long Sinusoidal Waves
  • Breaking Criterion for Sinusoidal Waves
  • Optical Measurements of Long Wave Run-up
• Experimental Setup
  • Description of Instruments
    • The Wave Flume
    • The Wave Gauges
    • The Velocity Meter
    • The Pressure Sensors
    • The High Speed Cameras
  • Performance of Physical Experiments
  • Data Processing
    • Processing of Time Series
    • Image Processing
    • Derived Quantities: Position, Velocity and Acceleration of the Shoreline
• Wave Generation
  • Introduction
  • The Pump-driven Wave Generator
  • The Controller Scheme
  • Summary
• Results Of Physical Experiments
  • Time Series
    • Comparison Reference and Actual Curve, Brier Score
    • Time Series of Wave Gauges
    • Time Series of EMS Sensor
    • Time Series of Pressure Sensors
  • Run-up and Run-down of Long Waves
  • Maximum Run-up and Run-down
  • Shoreline Velocity During Run-up and Run-down
  • Maximum Shoreline Velocity During Run-up and Run-down
  • Wave Acceleration During Run-up and Run-down
  • Summary
• Numerical Model Test
  • Introduction
  • Description of the Numerical Model
  • Results of the Numerical Model Study
    • Evolution of SSH During Propagation
    • Numerical Shoreline Location and Maximum Run-Up
  • Summary
• Summary and Outlook

Zielsetzung und Themenschwerpunkte (Objectives and Key Themes)

This master thesis aims to investigate the motion of the shoreline during the run-up of tsunami waves on a plain beach. The study combines both experimental and numerical approaches to achieve a comprehensive understanding of this phenomenon. The key themes explored in this work are:

• Experimental and numerical determination of shoreline motion during tsunami wave run-up
• Analysis of the influence of wave characteristics on shoreline motion
• Development and application of a numerical model to simulate shoreline motion
• Comparison of experimental and numerical results to assess the accuracy of the numerical model
• Evaluation of the applicability of the findings for coastal engineering applications

Zusammenfassung der Kapitel (Chapter Summaries)

• Chapter 1: The introduction provides an overview of the motivation behind the thesis and introduces the general characteristics of tsunamis. It also outlines the scope of the thesis and its structure.
• Chapter 2: This chapter reviews relevant literature, focusing on long wave generation techniques, the Brier score for evaluating forecast accuracy, the shoreline motion of long waves, and breaking criteria for sinusoidal waves. It also discusses optical methods for measuring long wave run-up.
• Chapter 3: This chapter details the experimental setup used in the study, including descriptions of the wave flume, wave gauges, velocity meter, pressure sensors, and high-speed cameras. It also discusses the data processing techniques employed.
• Chapter 4: This chapter focuses on the wave generation process, introducing the pump-driven wave generator and the controller scheme used to generate waves with specific characteristics. It also provides a summary of the wave generation methodology.
• Chapter 5: This chapter presents the results of the physical experiments, including time series analyses, run-up and run-down measurements, maximum run-up and run-down values, shoreline velocity and acceleration, and a summary of the key findings.
• Chapter 6: This chapter describes the numerical model used in the study and presents the results of the numerical model study, focusing on the evolution of sea surface height during propagation and the comparison between numerical and experimental shoreline locations.

Schlüsselwörter (Keywords)

This master thesis focuses on the experimental and numerical investigation of shoreline motion during the run-up of tsunami waves on a plain beach. Key areas of research include wave generation techniques, shoreline motion dynamics, run-up and run-down processes, numerical modeling, and data analysis. This work aims to provide valuable insights into the complex interplay of wave characteristics and shoreline motion, ultimately contributing to improved understanding and prediction of tsunami impacts on coastal areas.