Masterarbeit, 2018
88 Seiten, Note: A
1. INTRODUCTION
1.1 Context
1.1.1 The Fashion Industry
1.1.2 The Sustainability Challenge
1.1.3 Circular Economy
1.2 Rationale and Research Questions
1.3 Aim and Objectives
1.4 Research Methodology
2. LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Introduction
2.2 Fast Fashion
2.3 The Impact of Fast Fashion
2.3.1 Social Concerns
2.3.2 Environmental Impacts
2.3.3 Opportunities
2.4 The Need for Alternative Business Models
2.4.1 Business Models
2.4.2 (Sustainable) Business Model Innovation
2.5 Circular Business Models
2.5.1 Drivers, Principles and Strategies
2.5.2 Post-retail Initiatives
2.5.3 Service-based Business Models
2.5.4 The Four Resource Loops
2.5.5 The Sources of Circular Value Creation
2.5.6 Circular Business Models
2.6 Circular Economy in the Fashion Industry
2.6.1 Post Retail Initiatives in the Fashion Industry
2.6.2 Circular Business Models in the Fashion Industry
2.6.3 Five Circular Business Models
2.6.3.1 Reuse and Resale
2.6.3.2 Closed Loop & Recycling
2.6.3.3 Repair and Warranty
2.6.3.4 Renting and Leasing
2.6.3.5 Redesign
2.6.4 Conclusion
3. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Philosophical Assumptions
3.3 Research Approach
3.4 Research Design
3.4.1 Case Study Research
3.4.2 Sampling Strategy
3.4.3 Data Collection Techniques
3.4.3.1 Secondary Data
3.4.3.2 Primary Data
3.4.4 Time Horizons
3.4.5 Analysis of Data
3.4.6 Evaluation and Validity of Data
3.4.6.1 Secondary Data
3.4.6.2 Primary Data
3.5 Critical Discussion of the Methodology
3.6 Research Ethics
4. ANALYSIS
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Analytical Approach
5. FINDINGS
5.1 Introduction
5.2 Internal Motivations
5.2.1 Brand Values Shape the Business Strategy
5.2.2 Long-term Strategy
5.3 Enabling Factors
5.3.1 Independence Enables Long-term Goals
5.3.2 Store Presence Enables Story-telling
5.3.3 Human Centered Design/ Design for Longevity
5.3.4 External Enablers
5.4 Challenges and Risk Factors
5.4.1 Lack of Consumer Awareness
5.4.2 Logistic Barriers and Poor Take-back System
5.4.3 Financial Barriers
5.5 Economic Feasibility
5.5.1 Brand-customer Relationship
5.5.2 Service as USP
5.5.3 ROI
5.5.4 Circular Advantage
6. DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION
6.1 Introduction
6.2 Discussion
6.2.1 Motivations
6.2.2 Enablers
6.2.3 Challenges
6.2.4 Economic Feasibility
6.3 Conclusion
6.3.1 Implications and Recommendations
6.3.2 Limitations and Future Research
7. REFERENCES
This dissertation explores how fashion brands can move from a linear "take-make-dispose" model to a circular economy (CE) framework, specifically by evaluating the economic feasibility of product life-span extension (PLE) initiatives. The study investigates the internal and external drivers, barriers, and enablers for implementing circular business models (CBMs) to determine how brands can maintain economic viability while reducing environmental impact.
2.6.1 Post-retail initiatives in the fashion industry
In order to implement circularity in fashion BMs, there is a strong need to deal with the occurring post-consumer garment waste. Textile waste can be classified into three waste-categories. First, post-producer waste is the waste that occurs as a by-product during the production of clothing (WRAP 2017). Second, pre-consumer waste is caused by retailers when garments are not sold. And finally, post-consumer waste, which is the waste generated by the consumer, when garments are discarded after their use (Kant Hvass 2016). In this paper, the focus lies on post-consumer garment waste.
As mentioned earlier (section 2.5.2) businesses should focus on post-retail initiatives to extend the lives of products, as it is more beneficial in environmental and economic terms (Kant Hvass 2016). Therefore, fashion companies should aim to implement PLE strategies such as repair, reuse, refurbishment and remanufacture in their BMs before considering recycling (Fletcher 2008; Kvant Hass 2014).
Because the waste management field in the fashion industry is still an emerging topic and companies are in the learning process, it is highly fragmented, complex and limited (Kvant Hass 2014). There are two post-retail concepts, the circular and the servitization approach. The circular approach ensures that resources are being circulated in a closed-loop system through garment collection or take-back systems and recycling of the products (Bocken et al. 2015; Kvant Hass 2014; Sitra 2015; Stahel 2016). Companies collect items for recycling. Mass-market brands with more complex supply chains and lower quality products usually apply take-back systems in their BMs and rather recycle products due to the insecurity of the product’s resale value (Kvant Hass 2014).
The servitization approach is concerned with the PLE related to slowing resource loops (Bocken et al. 2015; Kvant Hass 2014; Stahel 2016). Companies develop alternative product utilisation strategies, such as second-hand channels, repair services or renting and leasing models, where the product liability remains with the company (Sitra 2015). This strategy is mostly applied by brands operating in the premium or high fashion segment, because the product’s value usually remains higher due to higher product quality (Kvant Hass 2014). Many companies, however, use a combination of the strategies above.
1. INTRODUCTION: Defines the environmental and economic challenges of the current linear fashion industry and establishes the research focus on circular economy (CE) and product life-span extension (PLE).
2. LITERATURE REVIEW: Explores existing theories on fast fashion, circular business models, and service-based strategies, providing a framework for understanding how product life can be extended.
3. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY: Details the inductive-exploratory approach using multiple-case studies of five pioneering fashion brands, including data collection techniques like semi-structured interviews.
4. ANALYSIS: Explains the analytical framework used to process qualitative data, utilizing Gioia et al. (2012) methodology to bridge raw interview data with theoretical concepts.
5. FINDINGS: Presents the primary empirical results regarding internal motivations, enablers, challenges (such as reverse logistics), and the economic feasibility of circular strategies.
6. DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION: Synthesizes the empirical findings with current theory, offering recommendations for businesses and identifying limitations and areas for future academic research.
Circular economy, Fashion industry, Business model innovation, Product life-span extension, Sustainability, Post-consumer waste, Circular business models, Service-based models, Economic feasibility, Customer loyalty, Reverse logistics, Repair services, Brand values, Long-term strategy, Textile recycling.
The research examines how fashion brands can transition from linear models to circular economy models, with a specific focus on the practical implementation of product life-span extension (PLE) and its economic viability.
The central themes include internal corporate motivations, key enabling factors for circularity, operational challenges such as reverse logistics, and the economic feasibility of service-based circular strategies.
The primary goal is to analyze how circular principles are implemented in fashion companies and to determine how brands can capture value through circular strategies and whether prolonging product lives is economically sustainable.
The researcher used a qualitative, inductive-exploratory approach, conducting multiple-case study research on five pioneering fashion brands through semi-structured interviews and document analysis.
The main body covers the theoretical foundation of circular business models, the current impact of fast fashion, the methodology of the multiple-case study, and a cross-case analysis of findings from companies like Nudie Jeans, Fjällräven, and Eileen Fisher.
The most characterizing keywords are Circular Economy, Business Model Innovation, Product Life-span Extension, Economic Feasibility, and Sustainable Fashion.
The study addresses the conflict between the traditional retail model that relies on constant sales and the circular requirement to prolong product use. It finds that companies overcome this by building long-term customer relationships and using repair/maintenance as a unique selling proposition (USP).
The study indicates that financial independence is a crucial enabling factor. Private ownership allows these brands to focus on long-term sustainability goals without the pressure of quarterly reporting to external investors.
Contrary to the trend of closing retail locations, this study finds that physical stores act as vital hubs for customer engagement, storytelling, and education regarding circular products and repair services.
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